Escape New York for a Wilderness Weekend in Harriman State Park

[caption id="attachment_1113" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pine Meadow Lake, Harriman State Forest"][/caption]

New York City dwellers jonesing for a nature buzz can get their kicks with a day hike or overnight trip through New York’s 47,000 acre Harriman State Park in Rockland and Orange Counties. It’s less than an hour from Midtown Manhattan and the best part is you

Pine Meadow Lake, Harriman State Forest

New York City dwellers jonesing for a nature buzz can get their kicks with a day hike or overnight trip through New York’s 47,000 acre Harriman State Park in Rockland and Orange Counties. It’s less than an hour from Midtown Manhattan and the best part is you don’t even need a car to get there.  Load up your knapsack with lunch for a day hike, or your backpack with gear for a one- to three-night trip, and blaze a trail to New York Penn Station. Hop a New Jersey Transit train to Secaucus Junction and transfer to   CONT’D at trazzler.com>>

Jeffrey Stanley at Diamond Mountain summit.

[photos via me]

You Cain’t Git That Here: Carpetbaggers and Scalawags on the Redneck Riviera

I grew up in southwestern Virginia where summer trips “south of the border” to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, a major tourist destination, were common.   Now that I’ve moved up North and have settled in with the damn Yankees  I don’t get to the Palmetto State as often as I used to, but this summer my girlfriend and I spent a week in Myrtle

I grew up in southwestern Virginia where summer trips “south of the border” to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, a major tourist destination, were common.   Now that I’ve moved up North and have settled in with the damn Yankees  I don’t get to the Palmetto State as often as I used to, but this summer my girlfriend and I spent a week in Myrtle Beach for a family reunion and to attend my niece’s wedding.  I was disappointed to conclude that this stretch of the beautiful Grand Strand, America’s Number One Golf Destination, the Redneck Riviera, should now go by a new moniker: the Tijuana of the South. 

 Mind you, I’m saying this as a New York City resident of twenty years.  Forget what you’ve heard about pushy New Yorkers.  The aggressive shopkeepers along 14th Street in Manhattan don’t hold a candle to the sleazy merchants we encountered all up and down Ocean  Boulevard.    If you like being constantly surveilled by teams of three or four staff who will follow you around their stores and stare you down while you take an item to the dressing room then Myrtle Beach is the place for you.  It’s like shopping in a maximum security prison.   If you do decide to make a purchase they follow you to the front to guard the door as though they’re ready to tackle you if you try to make a break without paying.  Has shoplifting really become so rampant in South Carolina that these measures are required?  I’m talking about stores like Pacific Beachwear on 21st Avenue and King’s Highway, and Beach Bums and Bargain Beachwear on Ocean Boulevard.  Be prepared for a vacation buzzkiller.  

My relatives reported the same kinds of episodes during their own excursions up and down the shops on Ocean Boulevard, not only in the form of excessive surveillance but also shifting prices at the cash register and hyper-aggressive clerks literally chasing them down the street after they exited without making a purchase.   It was the most hostile shopping experience we’d ever had.  I don’t know where these people are from but perhaps they can adapt to the culture a little better, maybe learn a little laid back Southern hospitality, especially at Myrtle Beach, one of the mellowest, albiet tackiest, places on Earth. 

Then there were the parasailing companies.  As soon as we got to Myrtle Beach and saw all the parasailers floating through the skies up and down the coast we were hooked.  Most of these companies are located several miles away in Murrell’s Inlet but we were happy at first to find two right there on the beach. The first one we tried, Ocean Watersports, is located in a beachside hut behind the Family Kingdom Water Park.  We called beforehand and first they lied to us on the phone.  My girlfriend and I are pretty adventurous and independent so we didn’t want to go up as a pair, we each wanted a solo
flight.  I asked, “Can we each do a solo flight?” 

“Yes.”  

I asked if reservations were required and they stressed that it would be very good idea, and that on that particular day we’d better come by 10am because after that they were booked solid.   We hastily shifted around our morning plans with family to hustle down there by 10am only to find that the place was practically empty. As far as we could tell we were the only customers.  We approached the fast-talking young woman in the hut.  “Hi, we’d like to go parasailing.” 

She shoved a release form and a pencil at us.  “Great, that’s $95 for two people.”  

“Excellent. We’d like to each go solo.” 

“You can go up solo in separate pairs,” she said quickly, still pushing the pencil and release at me.  “That’ll be $95, sign here.” 

 Huh? Come again?  Solo in separate pairs?  I turned to my girlfriend. “Did you understand that?” 

“We don’t do solo flights,” the clerk explained.  “You can go up separately but you’ll each be put with another person.” 

“I just called you this morning and you told me you do solo flights.” 

“We do, in separate pairs.” 

“Then it’s not a solo flight.”  

“Oh, you don’t want to go up by yourself anyway. It’s boring.” 

Parasailing is boring?  Should I have brought along a TV Guide to thumb through while I zoomed through the sky two hundred feet above open ocean?  This was her way to get us to go for their double-talk?   We just looked at her in disbelief. 

“It’s really boring,” she went on.  “You’ll want someone to talk to while you’re up there.” 

Her coworker stepped forward authoritatively to offer us a different explanation.  “See, it’s up to the captain once you get out on the boat whether you can do a solo flight. If it’s too windy then you have to go up in pairs.” 

“Is it too windy today?” 

“It’s up to the captain.” 

“Why didn’t you tell us this on the phone when I asked if you do solo flights? Do you ever do solo flights?” 

 “Not today.  It’s really fun in pairs, you’ll love it. Wanna go up?” 

We walked away.  Back in our room we looked through the Yellow Pages and found another nearby place, Downwind Sails located on 20th Avenue South next door to Damon’s Restaurant.  We gave them a call and asked if they allowed solo flights. They gave us a straight answer:  if you weigh less than 170 lbs. you cannot go up solo.  At least that made sense to us.  I’m easily 210 and fortunately for me, my girlfriend doesn’t weigh anywhere near 170 so we gave up on the solo flight idea and agreed we’d go up as a pair. We asked if they required a reservation and they stressed that that would be a very good idea so we booked a 4:00pm reservation for that same day.  They took my last name as a confirmation and said they’d see us at four.  We were thrilled. That afternoon we borrowed my aunt’s car and drove down, arriving 15 minutes early to pay and take care of the release forms.  

“Hi, we’d  like to go parasailing.” 

“We’re all done for today,” said the saleswoman.  “Would you like to make a reservation for tomorrow?” 

“No, you don’t understand, we made a reservation, you took our name.” 

 She hesitated. “Oh, um, well…it’s too windy so we knocked off early.”   Or was it that they were having an incredibly slow day like the other place?  We suspect so because at least three parasailers
were in the air flying past right on cue as she said this to us.  Oops!  

We looked at the parasailers, then back at her. “So you mean our reservation was worthless and you lied to us on the phone?” 

 “You can make a reservation for tomorrow if you like.” 

Okay, but first define reservation because clearly you don’t know the meaning of the word.  Why would we make another one when you have no intention of keeping it?   As your beloved ex-President and South Carolina favorite once said, “Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on—um—won’tgetfooledagain.”  We didn’t want to getfooledagain so we said nothing and headed back to the car. 

Unbelievable.  Screwed twice in one day by the Myrtle Beach parasailing hustlers.   For what it’s worth we filed complaints against both companies with the Better Business Bureau for unethical sales practices and wretched customer service.  Doubtless, the companies are unfazed because they know what we all know: there’s a sucker born every minute.  Make sure you’re not one of them. 

Not wanting to waste another precious day of our brief vacation chasing a parasailing pipe dream we gave up and sought our thrills closer to the ground at the Family Kingdom Amusement Park.  We were eager to ride the historic wooden roller coaster so we got up the next morning and walked there to start the day with a bang.  They were closed.  We found a security guard who told us, “We open at 4pm.”   Terrific. We’re at a major tourist destination in the height of summer and the amusement park doesn’t open until the end of the day. 

So, we hung out on the narrow, overdeveloped beach instead and had a blast jumping waves and collecting shells with the family, then went back that night and rode first the go-carts, a brief, slow, disappointing ride but even so a little girl got injured and was crying.  The supervisor pointed out some office across the park and told her mother they’d need to go there if they wanted to complain. 

Undaunted, we rode the roller coaster.  Just before our turn to get on we saw a mother and daughter get off the coaster and eagerly flag down the supervisor.  We couldn’t hear over the noise but we got the mother’s basic point.  Her kid had almost been tossed from the coaster and she was complaining about the worthless seatbelts.   The supervisor listened, sent her away, then turned to the other workers to remind them, “Be sure to strap ‘em in.”   

Against our better judgment we got on next and made it through the ride fine but the loose seatbelts were indeed a joke.  We flew up off of our seats a couple of times, it’s a wonder we didn’t get hernias.  They probably have a fine safety record but we do not recommend that you ride this rickety coaster, and  we say this as repeat riders of the ancient wooden Coney Island Cyclone. 

The next day we walked to the Family Kingdom Arcade across the street from the amusement park. We had a good time but the ski-ball machines kept eating our quarters.  Still, we racked up quite a few tickets and decided to go back the next afternoon to cash them in and get a prize.  We arrived a little after 6pm to find the place closed. Closed in the evenings in August when the town is full of tourists?  Nothing to do about it so we walked across the street to the Mini Market to check our email before walking back to our motel. We had seen the neon sign over their door which read INTERNET. 

“Hi, we’d like to use the Internet.” 

“Oh, we don’t have Internet.” 

“But the sign says Internet.” 

“We had nine computers in here last year but we took them out.” 

We didn’t bother asking the obvious question, then why don’t you take down the neon sign? 

Again let down by a Myrtle Beach merchant, we headed for home. The next day, having been disappointed by parasailing and the Family Kingdom but still jonesing for adventure, we decided to check out the much-advertised NASCAR Speedpark.  We stopped into an information booth on Ocean Boulevard and asked if they had a brochure for it.  The guy was very kind, handed us the brochure, then urged us inside, ostensibly to give us a map.  We soon learned that his real agenda wasn’t hospitality or driving directions but to tell us he could get us into the NASCAR Speedpark for free if we listened to his 90-minute presentation on buying a timeshare condo.  We declined the hustle but he quickly jotted his name and number down on the map and insisted we take it in case we changed our minds.  We hurried out and tossed the map in the first available trash can.The NASCAR Speedpark was another bust.  They have several tracks for varying ages but their big selling points are the high speed, high banked tracks for licensed drivers over the age of 16. We went inside to the cashier and learned that the two adults-only tracks were, you guessed it, closed.  The Myrtle Beach curse had struck again.   We asked the cashier about one of the other tracks which seemed like it might be for grownups.  “What’s it like?” 

 “Sixteen,” she said with a deadpan lisp, twirling her hair and staring off into the space somewhere beside my head. 

 “Sixteen?  Sixteen what?  Minimum age? Miles per hour?” 

 “…Yeah…” 

“Can you tell us anything about the other rides? What ages are they for?” 

“You can go outside and look at them if you want.” 

We went outside and  looked around at all the tightly controlled, geriatric go-carts creeping round and round their tracks and got the hell outta there.  NASCAR Speedpark would be a great place to take your small kids or your grandparents but otherwise skip it.  Don’t be fooled by their high-octane advertising.  Remember the rule: if anyone in Myrtle Beach is trying to sell you something it’s probably a bait and switch. 

My niece got married at a cute wedding chapel not far from the beach.  When my girlfriend and I arrived that morning and were hanging around the lobby waiting for the ceremony to begin the owner, a short, sweaty, bald white man with a Hitler mustache made a beeline for my girlfriend who is Indian-American.  “Come with me!” he said to her eagerly with a smile.  “Come right in here, it’ll just take a second!”  

She shrugged and followed him a few steps through an open door into the office where two staff members were working at their desks.  “Look!” he said to them proudly, gesturing to my girlfriend. “This is what my Hawaiian daughter looks like!  Isn’t she beautiful?”  His two employees smiled at her awkwardly and quickly got back to work, embarrassed on his behalf.  Oblivious, he turned to my girlfriend. “They’ve never seen a Hawaiian before, they don’t know what one looks like!”  She glared at him, turned and walked out, dying to say more but for my niece’s sake let it go. 

Concluding advice:  if you go on vacation to Myrtle Beach book yourself a cheap motel room and don’t go out at all.  Bring your own food, and don’t spend any money anywhere on anything.  Maybe just walk out from your motel to the extremely narrow, overdeveloped beach, put on a pair of dark sunglasses, sit under an umbrella and do not move

NB:  In fairness, we did find five incredible spots during our week in the Tijuana of the South:
 
 Pizza Roma at 412 N. Kings Highway (so good we went twice)
  
 The Spring House Restaurant at 2600 N. Kings Highway (great food and friendly staff)

Bennett’s Calabash Seafood at 2900 N. Kings Highway (amazing quality and selection, and also a very cool staff; my whole family loved it)  

Captain Hook’s Mini Golf at 2205 N. Kings Highway (loads of fun, nice people;  at the end I wanted to buy a t-shirt, it was about to close, they’d completely closed out the register but the cashier was nice enough to go find the owner who let me buy the shirt and I didn’t even have the full amount.)  

The Holiday Sands South Motel at 2411 South Ocean Boulevard, http://www.holidaysandssouth.com (outstanding all around; a great family-run business with beautiful views, great beachfront, excellent pools and a cute cafe). 

Deliverance, Brooklyn Style

[caption id="attachment_1787" align="alignleft" width="207" caption="Jeffrey Stanley canoeing in New York Harbor near the Brooklyn Bridge; 2003"][/caption]

As some thrilled tourist once said when he overheard a local complaining about the odor of the canals of Venice, we should all be so lucky as to smell that putrid odor every day. The first

Jeffrey Stanley canoeing in New York Harbor near the Brooklyn Bridge; 2003

As some thrilled tourist once said when he overheard a local complaining about the odor of the canals of Venice, we should all be so lucky as to smell that putrid odor every day. The first time I stood on the banks of the Gowanus Canal the dreadful effluvium indeed put me in the mind of Venice. But I never saw floating fields of garbage and dead rats in Venice, and of course there was no stunning Venetian architecture in South Brooklyn to soften the sensory blow. Could I paddle through this industrial wasteland and learn to love it? Dragging a canoe to the edge of  a three-foot drop and staring down into the filthy, brackish liquid, I was determined to find out.

 My goal had to have a rip-roaring, outdoorsy, inexpensive summer right here in New York City, and being on some kind of watercraft was for me a must.  I am an experienced fresh water paddler and have J-stroked my way safely through many treacherous and boulder-laden river rapids, but I am a starving playwright and teacher who by choice lives on nickels and dimes, so escaping to a rustic river for a few days was out. 

 Sure, there’s the image-conscious Hamptons crowd.  These are my smug lawyer and investment banker friends who quietly vanish every weekend from June to September to their upscale getaways along the south shore of Long Island.  If I promise to behave, and if I’m willing to wear the right deck shoes, they will invite me along with them periodically to frolic in their artificially perfect paradise. But the occurrence of such trips for me is unpredictable.  I never know for sure whether they’re going to come through with a last-minute invitation to tag along on a Friday afternoon to hop on the Hamptons jitney or not.  No, I was going to have to find a way to get out onto the mercury-infected waters right here around New York Harbor or be stuck sweltering on dry land all summer.

 My exploration began with a free kayak lesson at a pier in lower Manhattan which I discovered while jogging one June morning. Ultimately the kayaking subculture turned out to be a bust for me. The hardcore kayakers who go out on longer trips seemed militaristic. They liked barking orders, and there was never time to relax in a kayak.  The hobby was also potentially pricey, with literal bells and whistles and flashlights hanging from fancy life jackets, and wetsuits, and funny rubber skirts, and nowhere on most  kayaks to comfortably put my macho fishing tackle or a big sandwich, so I decided to look for something in the way of a nice Cadillac of a canoe. 

 A five minute search on the Internet turned up the Gowanus Dredgers, a canoe club Continue reading “Deliverance, Brooklyn Style”

Devil Women: Beyond the Date From Hell

In 2001 I abandoned a long and serious relationship largely over my career aspirations in the arts and lack of desire to move to Westchester and have a child anytime soon, and left the sanity of my Brooklyn home to crash on the couch of my uncle Joey in Manhattan.  Two years into being single again I often quipped  to friends

In 2001 I abandoned a long and serious relationship largely over my career aspirations in the arts and lack of desire to move to Westchester and have a child anytime soon, and left the sanity of my Brooklyn home to crash on the couch of my uncle Joey in the Chelsea neighborhoo of Manhattan.  Two years into being single again I often quipped  to friends that I was going to write a one-man show called This is a Date? I Thought You Were Gay, the title a reference to the tragic punchline I received at the end of the first date I went on after ending a seven-year relationship.

I admit that to the untrained newcomer to Manhattan I might have appeared that way — I was in my 30s, childless, living in Chelsea, and a playwright.  The date had been with a beautiful  religion professor from Pennsylvania, and  it had gone down in the great timeline of my petty existence as The Date From Hell.  Everybody is destined for one. There, that was mine.  Dating could only get better from there on out.

Well, I don’t know what’s worse than Hell among the world’s religions, but whatever that place is called, it’s the place from whence my two-headed demon dog of a night out emerged.  The prelude to my courtship Armageddon had begun two weeks before.

A casting director friend was in town from LA and had a gathering at a Hell’s Kitchen watering hole known for its theatrical clientele and its dark history as a former Irish mafia hangout in which a gangster once rolled a freshly severed human head down the bar.  This particular gathering would no doubt be full of bloodthirsty networkers not at all shy about serving as their own publicists, myself among them.  We’re in show biz.  It’s part of the job in this racket filled with desperate freelancers.  Within 30 seconds of my being seated next to an attractive, intelligent-looking, cheerful woman sipping a glass of white wine, she had introduced herself and, without my prompting, she had immediately launched into the reason for her giddiness. “I’m a director and my first movie’s about to be released!”  She was trying to impress me and I’ll admit it worked.  I was impressed.  She explained that it was a movie about the garment industry, a field in which she had worked in the past. She was writing what she knew. I liked that.

I also liked the fact that she had a head on her shoulders and she was hot.  I explained that for the past few years my focus had been on playwriting because I was having some success there, but that I’d gone to film school, dammit.  I wanted to make a movie, too.  One of my screenplays had been optioned by a small but successful indy production company in New York, and funding was being sought. I eagerly shared all of this with her, and in a flurry we chattered our bios happily away at each other; where we’d gone to film school, what brought us to this particular gathering, whether we were LA types or committed NY types. She put herself firmly in the LA camp.  I was NYC through and through but had enjoyed my short stays in LA to pitch my wares at the studios.  The more we talked, the physically closer we got, frequently leaning into one another. I bought her a drink.  Neither of us moved from our spots for the next two hours.

Now, in a situation like this, a fine line quickly develops between networking and flirting, between genuine attraction and a desire to get ahead.  I knew my attraction was genuine. I was getting that butterfly feeling in my stomach, a good feeling. I truly liked her, and I had the unmistakable feeling that she truly liked me back.  In this great big city two strangers had met by chance and that rare click had happened.  I asked her how she’d gotten her movie financed and she explained that the entire budget had come from an individual investor (later I would discover it to be her rich uncle). Without missing a beat she offered to send this unnamed investor my script, explaining that she sends lots of her friends’ scripts to him in hopes he’ll want to produce another film.  I told her that was incredibly kind of her given that she didn’t know my writing at all and was going on blind faith.  We exchanged cards and I told her I’d drop my script in the mail right away for her to pass along to her friend.

But I didn’t want the evening to end on that note. I had not been talking with her all this time in order to get my movie financed.  I wanted to see her again, and told her so.  She said she’d like that too, but would be insanely busy until her movie opened two weeks later.  Fair enough, I said, let’s keep in touch.

I left the bar shortly after she did, strolling out with an actress friend who had also been at the gathering and who had seen my whole evening with the director unfold.  She was thrilled for me.  She had acted in the director’s flick and affirmed that she was a warm and wonderful person.

Then I committed my first sin that in retrospect makes me cringe.  That very night before I went to bed I emailed her.  Told her I was going to hold her to her promise to have drinks with me after her movie opened.  I also stupidly asked her if she’d Googled me yet.  It was a joke, a flip reference to the fact that we’d met at a party full of frenzied networkers who were no doubt Googling each other at that very moment.  I added that I was going to Google her, too, before I went to bed, something which I had no real intention of doing, and which I did not do.

She wrote back a day later and said it was nice meeting me and to keep in touch but that she remained busy for the next couple of weeks. Without asking, she also promptly added me to her eblast list.  The next morning I received a promotional message about her movie premiere.  Was this flirting or networking? I still wasn’t sure but continuing proceeding as though it were the former.  I dropped my script in the mail to her so she could pass it along to her investor friend.

A week later I emailed her again and said I knew she was busy but that if a hole happened to open in her schedule to let me know, I’d love to meet for a quick drink. She wrote back and said yes, Thursday at 7:00pm we could meet for a drink. She mentioned that she hadn’t read my script yet and I told her that was no problem at all, I was not in a hurry.  It was of little importance. I had followed up on a lead and moved on. I was, however, in a hurry to spend more time with her. I liked her.

Thursday, 7:00pm, Bar Six.  We meet. I’m thrilled to see her. She flashes a big smile when she sees me. We hug.  It’s sweet.  She appears happy.  I’m happy.  We’ll joke about this night when we’re canoeing down the Amazon on our honeymoon one day.  We order drinks and hors d’oeuvres. She knew I had just come from a pitch meeting and right away asked how it had gone. It had gone well, I was excited.  I told her all about it.  She became excited for me. She had had a crazy day dealing with promotional issues for her movie but was pumped for the big premiere.  We ordered more drinks, continued to banter a mile a minute about our dreams, our career goals, what we’d done and what we hoped to do. We talked about our siblings, where we’d grown up.  I felt comfortable and natural around her, and I believed she felt the same.  Our legs kept brushing against each other beneath the table, and every so often she touched my hand when emphasizing a point.  My pride had me convinced this was the start of a wonderful relationship.  That pride was my second sin.

After about an hour of this, I looked up and found her gazing intensely at me. It caught me off guard but it was nice.  Our eyes locked. We stayed that way, eyes fixed on each other, for a full 20 seconds of warm silence.  Then the Four Horsemen showed up.  On a dime, in the midst of our beautiful staring contest, she leaned back, sneered, and asked, “So what’s your deal?” It was unmistakably hostile, and directed right between my eyes. I’d been a sitting duck.

“Um, I don’t know what that means.  Could you rephrase the question?”

She hadn’t dropped the sneer.  “I’m not impressed with you.”

I began looking around for a hidden camera. “I wasn’t trying to impress you. I’m just telling you about myself. The same way you’re telling me about yourself.”

“I’m not impressed.”

“Yes, you said that. It’s okay.  Don’t be impressed.  I wasn’t trying–”

“Maybe this is what you do to get women, maybe you’re not looking for anything serious, but this isn’t impressing me.”

“I’ve said repeatedly now that I’m not trying to impress you.  That’s not what this is about.”

“I’ve been listening to you rattle off your résumé for the past hour. All you’ve done is talk about your writing.”

“You were asking me questions about my writing.” I was incredulous. “I was answering them.  I’ve also asked you where you grew up, I’ve asked you about your family.”  She brought up that in my very first email  I’d asked if she’d Googled me and that she found it disgusting.  Ouch.

I explained that it was a joke. “I also said I was going to Google you but I didn’t actually do it.  I looked at your movie website two days ago, that was it, I swear!”  I had become defensive for no reason. I was on trial and fighting for my life.  “Wait a minute,” I stopped.  “Are you accusing me of being smarmy.”

“No, no,” she insisted with a forced innocence.

“Yes. You are.”

“I just think you’re having drinks with me because you want me to hurry up and read your script and you think I’m going to help you get your movie made. I’m shooting straight to the top like Madonna,” she said, skidding one palm against the other with a loud smack and raising it high in the air like a rocket.

My jaw dropped.  “You asked me send my script to you.  You insisted. Do you think you’re the only director I know?”  That momentarily stumped her. “I was merely following up. It’s standard operating procedure.”

She leaned back, ran a hand through her blond hair and looked away.  “I just think you admire me.”

“I used to.”

“If I’d told you I’d read your script and hated it you’d have never asked me to meet you for a drink.”

“That’s absurd.  It wasn’t about you reading it, it was about your friend reading it. And I’ve told you more than once I’m in no hurry.”  I was hurt and I was beginning to stammer.  “I mean — you hadn’t read it when you offered to send it to him, right?  So why does it matter whether you ever read it?”  I spewed on, caught up in saving my soul from an emotional demon.  “I was in a relationship for 7 years. Do you think my ex never hated anything I wrote?  My friends?  My agent?  If you had read it and told me you hated it I’d have taken out a pen and paper to take notes on what you didn’t like.  It’s called being a writer.”   She waited, uncertain.  “And besides, I haven’t seen your movie yet. What if I hate your writing? What if I hate your directing?  You know what would happen if I did?  Nothing.  I’d still want to hang out with you.  I truly liked you. I honestly thought you liked me back.”

She shuddered like she’d just tasted a bad olive.  I was bewildered.

“If you didn’t like me then why?” I begged.  “Why did you keep emailing me? Why did you start eblasting me about your movie?  If you think I’m a moron why didn’t you skip it altogether and move along? Why are you even meeting with me?”

“I wanted to teach you a lesson,” she said with the smuggest expression I have ever seen.

My head was starting to spin.  “Wait. You keep claiming you’re so busy.  But you’re going to take time out of your so-called busy schedule to come and teach me a lesson?”

She nodded again.

“But why bother? You barely know me.”

She nodded once more,  her lips becoming tighter, her eyes narrower.  I watched her that way, unsure what to do. I couldn’t walk away, the bill hadn’t been paid and I had only come armed with plastic.  Besides, I was in pain.  My dreams of the Amazon had become irreparably polluted.  “That’s incredibly mean,” I said quietly.  “It’s spiteful, antagonistic and egomaniacal. It’s evil.”

“No it’s not!”

“Yes it is!” Suddenly I was seven and arguing with my sister.  I backed off.  Perhaps it was a defense reaction, some form of intellectualized machismo, but my hurt was being quickly replaced with a scientific curiosity at the thought processes of this woman-child sitting across from me.  I had to ask: “What’s the lesson?”

“You talk too much about your writing.”

That pulled me into the flames.  “Now listen, lady– ”

Lady?”

“Listen, lady!”  The diners at the tables on either side of us bristled. They couldn’t help but overhear our conversation, no doubt with a certain delight.  “All you’ve done from the moment I met you last week, from the moment you opened your mouth, is talk about yourself!”

At this she lunged, yes lunged, across the table at me, ass off her seat, elbows splayed across the table, her face an inch from mine, and through clenched teeth she screamed, “MY MOVIE’S OPENING IN TWO WEEKS! OF COURSE I’M GOING TO TALK ABOUT IT!”

The dining room went silent.  I remained incensed, but was also now incredibly  embarrassed. “Could we get the check please?”  I pleaded to the nearest passing waiter.  He saw the agony in my eyes, nodded and scurried away.

Watching that sneer, those clenched teeth, I had finally begun to grasp her logic.  When she talked about her career it was because she was excited, and therefore had a right to be narcissistic.  When I talked about my career I was doing it to impress her.  She was the center of her — and she assumed my — universe.  And I suppose for a few days that week she had been the center of my universe.  The passing waiter dropped our bill on the table. I reached for my credit card.

“You’re not paying for my half either!”  she snapped, I suppose to curtail any effort on my part to play the gentleman.

“That’s right!” I shot back. “I’m only paying for my half.” She slapped her own credit card on the table next to mine and the waiter quickly took them away.

“I have an idea,” I tried soothingly.  “Let’s not speak anymore. Let’s sit here quietly, pay the check, get away from this table, and we never have to see each other or speak to each other ever again.”

“Fine.”  We sat in awkward silence, as did our neighbors.  Soon a tempting little devil me appeared on my shoulder and whispered in my ear. I obeyed.  I took out my pen and on the paper tablecloth I began scribbling a bulleted list of everything she had  said about herself that evening:

  • “I made a movie and it’s about to premiere”
  • “I have a publicist”
  • “I am modeling my career after Madonna’s”
  • “You admire me”

She couldn’t help but twist her head to see what I was writing, her face reddening.  She knew it was all true. She’d said every word verbatum.  I continued to write.

  • “I’m shooting from the bottom straight to the top, no middle ground for me”
  • “I don’t talk too much about myself”

“You know,  that’s really mean!” she sputtered breaking our mutual vow of silence.  “If I did that to you you’d get up and storm out.”  I knew she wouldn’t be able to keep her mouth shut and I’d made her see it herself.  It was a small and petty victory but I’d settle for it.

I had gotten her goat, and so I had no more reason to raise my voice. “But you have done it. You have done this exact thing to me tonight, pretending to like me all week just so you could come here and shit all over me, asking me questions about my writing so you could then tell me I talk about my writing too much. It’s insane. Do you see that it’s sick and incredibly sadistic?”

She said nothing.  Our separate receipts arrived and I reached for mine.  She raced to finish her signature first and stood up to pull on her coat.   “You’re probably going to make me a character in one of your plays.”

I was no longer amazed that her clinical narcissism still showed no sign of dissipation.  I watched her for a few moments–her agitation, her smugness, the look of unmitigated sourness on her face.  “You need a therapist,” I said blankly.  I was no longer hurling insults.  I was offering what seemed to me a sincere evaluation.

Excuse me?” She dramatically leaned over, cupped her ear and aimed it at my face.

“You’re a textbook case. You need to talk to a therapist.”

She moaned, shook her head and stormed out.  I waited 60 seconds, gathered my things and walked out not long after her.  From the sidewalk I saw her hailing a cab as I kept on walking away. I didn’t dare look back at the carnage.

You have probably guessed that I didn’t bother attending her premiere, though I took great delight when every paper in town slammed the film the day after it opened, one major critic describing her directing style as “neurotic fingerpointing,” an unwitting but apt summation of her personality.

But my apocalyptic night hadn’t ended yet.  Another trial awaited me in the same neighborhood.  I was walking home from Bar 6, still in an existential fog, when my cell phone rang. It was my friend Lewis, a media consultant and art dealer with a bevy of highbrow friends. “Hey, we’re going to a party, I’m coming to pick you up. The only rule is, in order to get into the party you have to come prepared to tell a story about something not going as planned.”  Boy, did I have one of those.

An hour later we were walking into the tail end of a dinner party that was more posh than I had expected, and I felt a little out of my element. About twenty people, mostly women, sat around the perimeter of a living room sipping wine and nibbling on cheese. One of them was standing and finishing up her story about being a documentary filmmaker.  I found the most anonymous seat I could find and began looking around at the faces, listening to the stories, and soon realized I might not be in the best company to tell my story. I was in a room full of accomplished journalists, movie executives, and at least one bona fide, stunning movie starlet.  My longtime fantasy of running away with her, similar to one George Costanza once had about her for an entire episode of Seinfeld,  was about to go out the window forever.  Soon it was my turn to speak. My legs were weak but I stood up and plunged ahead, recounting the story I have just told here, using the party as a free group therapy session.

To my relief, my story received resounding applause, hoots and hollers.  I also received an unexpected benefit.  Several women, unfortunately not the starlet, lined up to give me hugs and words of encouragement about the “wretched” “vile” “evil” “psycho” “female version of a frat boy” who had set me up for a phony date.  I had exorcised my demon. I smiled. I felt better.  After a few minutes the party ended.  Lewis was leaving with his cohorts to meet someone named Elizabeth in the West Village.  I trailed along for one last drink of the evening, exhausted and ready for bed.

We got to the West Village bar and met up with this Elizabeth.  Lewis and company all sat with her at a side table while I remained alone at the bar and quietly sipped a scotch, my tail between my legs.  After half an hour of nursing my drink I headed for the door, stopping to say goodnight to my friends at the side table and give a polite hello to the stranger, Elizabeth. She said she was on her way outside for a smoke, hopped up and followed me out.  She was kind and seemed eager to talk, and I suppose I still needed to talk as well because I plopped down next to her on the restaurant steps and we chatted while she chain-smoked.

She was incredibly forthcoming about her family, her failed  relationships, and a stint as a prescription drug addict. She lived nearby and I walked her home. Outside of her building she asked me to light her cigarette.  She smoked while I told her about my outlandish evening by way of explaining that I wasn’t quite myself at the moment.  She jotted down her phone number on a matchbook cover, I gave her my card — swearing it was not to network, it was to see her again because I liked her — and walked home.  The next day I mentioned to Lewis that the evening hadn’t been a complete nightmare after all.  I had really dug talking with that Suszanne.

“Dude,” he chuckled with sadistic glee.  “Do you know who that was? Do you have any fucking idea who that was?”  I had no fucking idea who that was.  He explained that she was none other than Prozac Nation author Elizabeth Wurtzel.  the well known author of an extremely popular memoir about depression which had been recently adapted into a major motion picture.  Later that day I had lunch with an entertainment magazine editor friend, told him I had met her and asked him what he knew about her. He informed me that she is known to be completely off her rocker and that, given my own fragile state, I ought to skip it.  Next I emailed an author friend who has also written a popular memoir and asked her what she knew about Elizabeth.  Same answer: the woman is a psycho, stay away from her.  Then I emailed a movie producer friend to see what he thought: “I hear she’s out of her mind.”

With all of these dire warnings to stay away, I of course had to go see for myself.  Perhaps my friends were jealous and wrong about her. I gave her the benefit of a doubt and called her, leaving a voicemail.  Two days later my phone rang at 4:45am, waking me. It had to be a wrong number so I let it go to voicemail.  I listened to it the next morning. It had been a return call from Elizabeth without apology or explanation about the early hour.  That should have been a warning sign, but I plowed ahead.

A few days later we made a date to see a documentary at the Film Forum, then went for a drink at the Empire Diner in Chelsea.  We made the mistake of talking politics on a first date — it had been sparked by the documentary, and by the fact that Desert Storm was about to begin so it’s all anyone was talking about.  I told her the invasion was predicated on lies and that we already knew for a fact that there were no WMDs.  “Then you’re an idiot!” she hissed.

“If you’re going to call me names for disagreeing with you we aren’t going to get very far.”

“I know there are WMDs!  I just know we’re going to find them!  And the Iraqi people will thank us for getting rid of Saddam!”  Good Lord, she was an acolyte of Cheney and Rove.

“I know there aren’t,” I said.  “You don’t send thousand and thousands of your ground troops into a country that has WMDs ready to launch at other countries, get it?  It’s why we never attacked Moscow during the Cold War, or why we don’t invade North Korea now. They have the fucking bomb.  If Saddam has chemical WMDs ready to launch on his own populace or on our army, or he has nukes ready to launch into Israel then we wouldn’t be rolling in like gangbusters.  They won’t find any WMDs and they’ll make up another lie later to explain why.”  That stumped her.

I was sorely disappointed to learn that one of the main spokespeople of her generation was a rabid, right wing warmonger.  Oh and that she was an idiot.

Having lost the Iraq debate she looked for a more personal way to attack me and emerge from  the evening with her ego intact.  When we left the diner and I was hustling for home she began a tirade at me in the middle of the street, hurling personal insults when she learned that my ex and I had given away our cats to trusted mutual friends as an upshot of our split.

“Kitty killer!”

“No, see, I’m not a kitty killer. I made sure to not give them to a shelter. We gave them to trusted friends who already knew and loved the cats.”

“Kitty killer!”

“I made sure to find them homes. See how I’m not a kitty killer?”

“Kitty killer!”

I smiled, said goodnight, and erased her number from my cell phone’s memory the moment she was in a cab and fading into the night.  Unfortunately she still had my number, and called me seconds later from the cab to continue excoriating me in the form of a long voicemail message regarding my former — very much alive and well taken care of — pets. The disturbing message consisted primarily of her chanting, “kitty killer, kitty killer, kitty killer” over and over again in a creepy, high-pitched little girl voice.  I would like to think she had been joking or even flirting in her own twisted way but I decided to wise up and stop ignoring all of my Elizabeth mentors’ advice:  stay away from her; she has made a career of her mental illness and there’s a reason for it.

God help me.  Suddenly the idea of getting married and moving to the suburbs to have a baby and a 9 to 5 job didn’t seem like the Hell it had felt like two years before.  I’ll keep these horrific date nights in mind the next time I meet a woman who says all she wants is to get out of New York City and buy a house in the suburbs raise a family. At least I’ll think twice before excusing myself and moving to the opposite end of the bar.  Perhaps Westchester isn’t so close to Hell after all. I don’t need Heaven.  Earth would be nice.

– Jeffrey Stanley

Written 2003.  Published online 2021.

[photo via blanny.net]

Freedom Is a Crazy Spitter

In August, 2001 I abandoned my old life, largely over my lack of desire to decide in favor of  having a child anytime soon, and left the sanity of my Brooklyn home to return to the madness of Manhattan and crash on the couch of my uncle Joey.  Overnight I had left my partner and leapt from the portals of the American Dream into the underworld of the Starving Artist. 

In August, 2001 I abandoned my old life, largely over my lack of desire to decide in favor of  having a child anytime soon, and left the sanity of my Brooklyn home to return to the madness of Manhattan and crash on the couch of my uncle Joey.  Overnight I had left my partner and leapt from the portals of the American Dream into the underworld of the Starving Artist.  With most of my earthly belongings soon stored in my friend Aaron’s garage in Windsor Terrace, my new life was for me rudely Spartan:  cabinetful of Ramen, loose assortment of clothes, some books, Swiss army knife, small flashlight, laptop, AM-FM pocket radio, handheld television with a 2.3″ screen. Despite my freely made choice to destroy my gateway to the middle class in order to be alone, the road I’d chosen was an emotionally hard one to walk. 

When a month later 9/11 happened and the looming threat of terrorism settled in, I began to see my self-marginalization and the streamlining of my lifestyle not as setbacks but as survival advantages over many of my beourgeois friends.  I had become fully mobile, I had become unfettered by property, I had become an urban Bedouin ready to run at a moment’s notice.  And I had trained myself how to run like hell.

 One evening a week into our invasion of Iraq Joey came home as usual with the New York Times tucked beneath his arm fresh from a neighborhood newsstand, only this time he frantically pulled a color insert from within its folds as he scurried into the living room at me where I sat writing at my borrowed desk.  “See?” he proudly proclaimed.  “The New York Times isn’t afraid to show us the images. Everyone else is too scared to do it.”

 Before I could ask what he meant, he dropped the insert onto my lap. I picked it up and almost retched.  The images  on the insert were those from Al Jazeera featuring dead US soldiers and Iraqi civilians killed with US weaponry, the ones we’d all been hearing about but never been allowed to see here in the free world.  The freeze-frames depicted in living color the destroyed head of a child, blasted to pieces in a US military attack. The top of her skull was completely gone, the scalp, with hair  intact, was torn open and splayed in several directions on the ground like a fleshy crown. The accompanying text read, “3 year old innocent Iraqi girl ‘Liberated’ by George Walker Bush.  Basra, Iraq, 3/22/03.  US & Brit Soldiers look what you’ve done if you follow orders you are a war criminal.”

This insert was an amateurish, although not necessarily inaccurate, photocopy which had been reproduced onto Avery label paper so that the back could be easily peeled and posted in public, an unspoken exhortation for the recipient to become an active participant in showing the public our tax dollars at work in Iraq.  As my visceral revulsion at the images increased, and a growing rage about what this child’s parents, neither of whom had a bloody thing to do with 9/11,  must now think of us invaders, I began to imagine public places where I might hang the poster under cover of darkness in order to join anonymously in alerting my fellow New Yorkers to the facts.

However, I found myself too selfish to let the macabre insert out of my possession.  Instead I clung to it in mourning, a replay of my reaction to the heart-wrenching images burned permanently into my mind the day I stood on the south side of Washington Square on my way to teach, and saw office workers diving and falling like tossed mannequins from the upper floors of the World Trade Center.

The insert was being placed in newspapers by someone angry over our media’s censorship of unpleasant war footage, either an individual with a lot of free time or perhaps an organized group.  But was the insert correct?  Was this dead child now haunting my daydreams even real?  Was she indeed killed with US-made weapons?  I became obsessed with tracking down the distributor of the insert.  I wanted proof of the images’ veracity.  I wanted to learn that the perpetrator was a prankster, that this atrocity in Basra never really happened, that there is no dead little girl with a burst head.  It’s a Photoshop trick.  Everything’s going to be okay.

The solution to uncovering the truth about the insert’s claims seemed quick and simple.  I would go to Al Jazeera’s website and seek out versions of the same pictures.  Perhaps I would even be lucky enough to find a name to go with the shattered little face and help rehumanize it.  Unfortunately, US-based pro-murder hackers had attacked the site a few days ahead of me and replaced Al Jazeera’s content with an image of the United States  flag.  So much for freedom of the press and the democratizing power of the worldwide web.

 Momentarily thwarted, I tried contacting two prominent anti-war organizations based in the city to see if either of them had any awareness of a campaign to distribute these images.  I never received a response from either organization.

Next I blindly e-mailed the editorial, advertising and customer service departments at the New York Times. Did they know anything about the poster being ensconced in their papers?  Had they gotten any complaints?   Praise?  Could the perpetrator be a disgruntled employee on a delivery truck?   I received a call from the Times‘ PR director Toby Usnik.  “It’s the first I’m hearing about this instance,”  said Usnik, much to my disappointment.  He wasn’t nearly as besieged and distraught as I’d hoped.  I needed a teammate, a partner in bereavement and the search for truth.  I pressed harder.  He reiterated, “I’ve also asked a few people around the office and no one’s heard about this.”  He offered me his cell number and urged me to call him if I learned anything more.

I finally did what I should have thought to do in the first place.  I walked into the newsstand where my uncle had bought the newspaper, slapped the insert onto the counter in front of the elderly cashier Vinod and explained it had come from a newspaper bought at his store. Had he seen others like it?  Had he done it himself?  Had it come in that way off the Times‘ delivery truck?  A little embarrassed, he conceded that every few days a man comes walking by with a stack of these homemade posters, runs into the store and shoves them into the newspapers, then runs out to hit the next store.  Bingo. 

I asked Vinod to have the man get in touch with me on his next raid and began digging in my wallet for my card which naturally contained my name, e-mail, home phone, and home address.  As I offered it he warned me.  “This man is crazy.  Another customer tried to have a fight with him about the poster and he spat all over the customer’s head.” 

A crazy spitter?  I thought twice about my quest for truth, quickly retracted my card from Vinod’s hand and instead scribbled down only my first name and cell number on a scrap of paper.  “Tell him I don’t want to fight with him.  I only want to talk to him about the pictures of the dead child.”

My dark little mystery remained unresolved but one new rallying cry emerged from within me that week:  my government is using my money to kill others and I have a right to know about it.  I have seen Matthew Brady’s grisly yet revered Civil War photos of our forebears and I have relatives who died fighting at Gettysburg.  I have seen disturbing newsreels from World War II in which my relatives also fought.  I have seen  colorful carnage captured on film in Vietnam.  My brother Steve proudly served four years in the armed forces as did my father.  I myself photographed bombed out suburbs and booby trapped churches on the Croatian countryside in the 1990s en route to Nikola Tesla’s wartorn birthplace in Smiljan, a trip that inspired my 1999 play Tesla’s Letters.  

If I cannot trust my own government and my own press in the 21st century to show me the  realities of Iraq’s occupation instead of  working  actively to keep me within a naive fantasy of precision-guided weapons that never miss their marks, if a group of rabid hackers can also force me to keep blinders on, then to whom can I turn for independent verification of facts but a crazy spitter?  If these are my choices then I hope there is an army of crazy spitters out there, and that they are cranking out more inserts of war victims this very minute and slipping them into newspapers all across this great land.

After a week of searching for confirmation that this anonymous kid’s horrific fate was partly my responsibility because I had partly paid for it, I gave up and decided to seek closure for her death in a more personal way.  I e-mailed my ex to make sure she and her new husband and their newborn were safe, and to wish them good luck.

Written March 31, 2003.

[Emil Nolde’s The Prophet via wikipedia.  Al Jazeera photo via American Genocide.]